h&m sustainability case study

For H&M, the future of fashion is both ‘circular’ and digital

H &M Group, the world’s second-largest clothing retailer, is betting that people will choose and buy clothes differently from the way they have in the past—and it sees itself as a potential catalyst for that change. The company, which operates some 5,000 stores in 70-plus countries, believes it has both the responsibility and a tremendous opportunity to change consumer behavior. So says Vanessa Rothschild, who has helped lead the company’s sustainability efforts for more than four years. Today, as H&M Group’s global sustainability steering and development manager, Rothschild and her colleagues work to define and achieve the company’s sustainability goals, which include using only sustainable materials by 2030 and having a “climate positive” value chain—one that reduces more greenhouse gases than it emits—by 2040.

Rothschild spoke with McKinsey’s Karl-Hendrik Magnus and Monica Toriello about the future of sustainable fashion. The following are edited excerpts of the conversation.

McKinsey: Your job title is quite long. What does it mean? What are your primary responsibilities?

Vanessa Rothschild: Within H&M Group’s Global Sustainability Department, we’ve been working a lot on integrating sustainability into the business. The “steering” part of my job means my team works on steering mechanisms that help make sustainability a natural part of our everyday decisions: what we are being measured on, our KPIs, and so on. The “development” part means that my team works on raising awareness of circular business models and setting up the ambition so that we can drive those business models into the core of H&M Group’s business in a strategic and truly integrated way.

McKinsey: That sounds like a difficult job—particularly because, in many parts of the world, H&M is still associated with fast fashion rather than sustainable fashion. What will it take to shift consumer perception? And, more important, what will it take to shift consumer behavior?

Vanessa Rothschild: I think we can play a central role in both of those. H&M Group, and the fashion industry as a whole, has for many years excelled at making fashion desirable and attractive. Today, we have the same kind of responsibility, and also the opportunity, to make “circular fashion” just as attractive or even more attractive. My definition of circular fashion is an industry in which resources and products stay in use for as long as possible before being recycled or regenerated into new products, again and again.

Part of our role is to find the convergence between the digital shift and the circular shift—to make them come together so that it becomes very, very easy for the customer to adopt new ways of behaving and of using fashion. We have had the power to create desire; I think we also have the power to create meaning and well-being.

McKinsey: To that end, what are some of the most innovative or highest-impact circular initiatives at H&M right now? And how do you see those initiatives evolving over the next ten years?

Vanessa Rothschild: I see three main parts making up a circular ecosystem within the fashion industry: circular supply chains, circular products, and circular customer journeys. There are exciting innovations within each of those parts. For circular supply chains, at the most basic level we need to produce only what we can sell; we need to adjust supply and demand. Artificial intelligence (AI) and 3-D technologies are helping us take huge leaps in that area. For example, algorithmic commerce, or using AI to understand consumer needs in order to produce only the right products in the right amounts and allocate them to the right place, will take us far.

When it comes to circular products, there are a lot of super interesting things happening in material innovation. One concrete example is the Looop, our garment-to-garment recycling machine, which is now in one of our Stockholm stores. Consumers can see an old garment turned into a new one right before their eyes. Another example of material innovation and recycling technology is Renewcell, which is a company that H&M Group has invested in. Renewcell is developing a new material called Circulose, made by gently recovering cotton from worn-out clothes.

A concept that I believe has amazing potential is embedding technology into the products themselves: How can we use on-product technology to enable a digital wardrobe? Product ID is an important enabling technology that will take us very, very far, both in terms of consumer behavior—because it will make it simple for consumers to swap, share, and show garments—and in terms of impact follow-up. Digital enablers will make it much simpler for garments to flow through circular business models such as resale, rental, and repair.

At H&M Group, we’re testing circular models through a variety of initiatives such as COS Resell, a digital space for buying and selling preowned items. But the really exciting part is when we start to scale these business models, and when we decouple business growth from resource use. By 2030, these initiatives won’t just be scattered, sporadic initiatives. They’ll become interconnected initiatives that form the core of our business.

Doing business in this way, coming up with all of those innovations, requires diversity of thought. So inclusion and diversity are crucial preconditions for all of this to happen.

McKinsey: Has the COVID-19 pandemic changed the way H&M thinks about those initiatives? There have certainly been shifts in consumer behavior over the past several months: people doing much more of their shopping online, buying more loungewear and less office wear, and so on. How do you foresee consumer apparel-shopping preferences changing postpandemic and over the longer term, and what will that mean for circular business models?

The future of fashion: Sustainable brands and ‘circular’ business models

Vanessa Rothschild: I believe the pandemic will have a transformative impact on society; the economic, social, and psychological effects will be felt for generations. But we’re now at a point where we are at least past the shock phase and can start planning for the future. Most of the changes we’re seeing right now are major transformations; they are new lifestyle behaviors rather than just short-term trends in the market.

The growth in online shopping, as you said, has sped up. Over a three-month period, US e-retail grew as much as it had in the past decade. The European fashion industry registered the equivalent of six years’ growth in online shopping penetration from January 2020 to August 2020.

Consumer demand for comfort, in every sense of the word, is growing: both comfort in terms of styles and fashion trends, but also comfort and convenience in customer interactions. The casual workweek is here to stay. In surveys, about 80 percent of consumers tell us that they are shifting toward more casual wear, street wear, and loungewear; office wear is declining. Consumers are also expecting comfortable, friction-free shopping.

In addition, consumers are making more conscious choices about what they wear, and that’s where we see them starting to embrace circular business models. I think the big winners in the future will be those fashion players that can embrace circularity and digitization at the same time. Future winners will be companies that can problem-solve for customers and create long-term relationships with customers—companies that provide solutions and services, not just products.

McKinsey: What does that look like a decade from now? How do you see the fashion retail landscape evolving between now and 2030, and what role will sustainability play in that landscape?

Vanessa Rothschild: First and foremost, fashion retail will be a very scrutinized market: consumers, stakeholders, and companies themselves will have much higher demands for transparency. Second, it will be a much more cocreated market. Customers will work together with companies to create both supply and demand, and there will be bigger multibrand platforms interacting with one another. Third, partnerships will be even more important in 2030 than they are today. Companies in the industry will need to support one another. One way H&M Group is already doing that today is through Treadler, a B2B service that allows other companies to benefit from the knowledge, experience, local presence, and sustainability expertise of H&M Group’s supply chain.

McKinsey: Thanks for speaking with us today, Vanessa. One more question: What are your boldest predictions about the next decade in sustainable fashion?

Vanessa Rothschild: By 2030, it might be possible to make new products out of postconsumer waste—and maybe even out of carbon emissions! It might be possible to make new products without using any new natural resources at all. Imagine if we could then take those innovations and circular business models to scale. The sharing and resale market will become an even bigger business than the retail market. We as consumers would own a very small percentage of our wardrobe; the majority of our clothing will be shared. Fashion’s next normal will be “ownershift” rather than “ownership.”

Another bold prediction: through increased focus on environmental issues beyond climate change—biodiversity, for one—the fashion industry will become a force for change in other industries. For example, the fashion industry could champion regenerative farming and spearhead systemic changes within farming as a whole. In other words, the fashion industry will become a net-positive contributor to the environment and play a crucial role in the transformation of our society into a circular way of living.

Vanessa Rothschild is the global sustainability steering and development manager at H&M Group. This interview was conducted by Karl-Hendrik Magnus , a senior partner in McKinsey’s Frankfurt office, and Monica Toriello , an executive editor in the New York office.

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The fashion industry exploded over the past two decades. Garment production has doubled since 2000, and plastics use has multiplied along with it. H&M, one of the largest apparel manufacturers in the world, wanted to grow more sustainably. One of its goals: eliminate plastic from its packaging. Together we developed a new paper packaging system that’s cutting thousands of tons of plastic from H&M’s operations, helping the company and its customers meet their sustainability goals.

plastic-free packages shipped in 2022

Of plastic eliminated from h&m operations.

Packaging accounts for 26% of plastics produced globally every year.

Fashion e-commerce is estimated to grow by 10% annually through 2024, requiring even more packaging.

Fast fashion keeps getting faster. But if the industry is to meet its climate commitments, its use of plastics has to slow down.

H&M chief executive Helena Helmersson set ambitious sustainability goals when she stepped into her role. She wanted to reduce the fashion giant’s impact on the environment and enable meaningful growth. But change is tough for any company, let alone one with eight brands operating across 74 markets. Together IDEO and the H&M Group created new plastic-free packaging, rallying around a more sustainable packaging solution that’s easily customizable.

By applying a design-led approach that went far beyond hiring a sustainability consultant, the H&M Group managed to reduce its use of plastic. But it didn’t stop there. A small team called Design Studio took what it learned and grew into an established strategic capability that pioneers new ways of working in the organization, tackling complex challenges in circularity, inclusion, supply chain, and customer experience. Sustainability isn’t a passing trend for H&M. It’s moving fashion forward.

“Sustainable packaging was our first beacon project for using a design-led approach to deliver on big shifts as a company. Today we’ve built a design capability tackling challenges in key strategic areas while unleashing human-centered ways of working across our organization.”

Differentiating a New Hotel Brand With Design

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H&M Foundation: Creating fashion with purpose

Strategy and solution, transformation.

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Making the fashion industry more sustainable is a massive paradigm change, and one best made via an ecosystem of partners and open innovation.

The non-profit H&M Foundation teamed up with KTH Royal Institute of Technology and Accenture to create the Global Change Award (GCA) to help accelerate the fashion industry on this journey.

Now in its sixth year, the GCA continues to drive change through the innovations of today and the solutions of tomorrow. Across the first five years of the GCA, 25 winners were chosen from 20,000+ entries across 200+ countries. This year, H&M Foundation collaborated with Accenture on The Billion Dollar Collection , a virtual fashion collection presenting 10 of the GCA winners working to change the face of the fashion industry.

Every year, the world uses more resources than our planet can sustain. With fashion as one of the most planet-intensive industries, the non-profit H&M Foundation, wanted to shift from “take-make-waste” production and consumption models to a “take-make-take-make-take-make” economy that eliminates waste.

How could the global foundation help the industry create fashion for a growing population while protecting the planet? It knew it needed strong partners to help reinvent the fashion industry. As a result, H&M Foundation collaborated with Accenture and KTH Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm to apply and accelerate innovation at scale through the Global Change Award.

The Global Change Award is one of the world’s biggest challenges for early stage innovation and the first initiative of its kind in the fashion industry. It identifies ideas that apply disruptive technology and new business models to change the way garments are designed, produced, shipped, bought, used and recycled.

Accelerating innovation

The H&M Foundation, KTH and Accenture co-developed the GCA accelerator concept and overall program structure using an open innovation approach. Since 2015, all three organizations continue to develop the program together, for example, contributing:

An innovation accelerator and coaching to help the winners turn their ideas into reality. Accenture offers knowledge and insights into the future of fashion and retail.

Analytics and thought leadership to identify the trends shaping sustainable fashion. Accenture creates a report on the trends in circular fashion and open innovation to share with the broad industry.

Accenture also helps the five winners each year to build bridges in the broader ecosystem, bringing in other start-ups and more established businesses to help create partnerships for innovation.

Seize the moment—Responsible and resilient retail

H&M Foundation and its partners, KTH and Accenture, are helping to make the fashion industry more sustainable. Shifting to a circular economy presents a paradigm change for the industry—modernizing fashion’s global production and consumption in a way unseen since the Industrial Revolution. With H&M Foundation’s help and direction, fashion start-ups in the circular economy are acquiring the knowledge and skills to develop and scale their ideas into fully fledged businesses. The award program helps the winners to accelerate results and make a lasting change on the industry—and the world.

Creating more sustainable fashion is helping to attract future customers and employees who increasingly demand greater transparency and clothes with a conscience. The shift toward circular fashion is bringing new benefits for the industry, such as reduced material costs, improved customer relationships and reduced risk of resource exhaustion. Together, the H&M Foundation, KTH and Accenture are pushing the boundaries of what’s possible by nurturing green, disruptive ideas and technology that will shape the future of fashion.

Selected success stories The 2016 winner, Orange Fiber, worked with Accenture and other partners in the accelerator to learn how to move from a small start-up with lab production to scale its business model and marketing to meet demand. Orange Fiber repurposes leftovers from citrus fruit production to create a silk-like, biodegradable fiber with fantastic sturdiness, shine and drape. Since working with H&M Foundation, KTH and Accenture, the Salvatore Ferragamo group launched a capsule collection using Orange Fiber fabric.

One of the 2017 winners, EON-ID, creates tiny RFID threads with a digitalized “ingredients list.” The threads, which can be sewn into garments, aim to make the recycling process more efficient and less wasteful by proactively identifying the garment’s materials. The Global Change Award helped the team move beyond proof of concept to commercialized technology, as well as build partnerships with large global brands that are purchasing and introducing EON-ID RFID Thread technology into their value chains. Just one year later, the company has moved from having five sample threads to producing significant amounts.

Shifting to a circular economy presents a paradigm change for the industry— modernizing fashion’s global production and consumption in a way unseen since the Industrial Revolution. Fashion start-ups are acquiring the knowledge and skills to develop and scale their ideas into fully fledged businesses.

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You are in: Home » Research Articles » Research Articles » Case Study: How H&M is changing from global to local… sustainably

Case Study: How H&M is changing from global to local… sustainably

By chloe rigby.

Shoppers can recycle clothes at H&M’s UK stores

In recent years, H&M has transformed the way it does business. It’s gone from being a one-size-fits-all global giant, to a retailer that still sells around the world, but does so with a more finely tuned local strategy. The fashion to homewares retailer, ranked Leading in RXUK Top500 research, is integrating its online services into its physical stores and is putting customers in charge with a mobile app that helps them connect with online or their local shop – which ever is better for them.

Shoppers can now collect and return their online orders at more and more stores as H&M rolls out this strategy. They can also turn on ‘in-store mode’ to search their local store for the products they want to buy, even from a distance, using text search and visual search. When customers are already in the shop, they can scan clothes tags for more information. They can find out whether sizes and colours are available in the store or online, what the item is made of, how to look after it and how to style it. Customers who sign up to become H&M members can opt for free delivery, collection and access to different ways of paying as the retailer meets shopper demands while, at the same time, getting to know its customers better.

“Our ongoing transformation work to meet customers’ ever-increasing expectations is bearing fruit,” said H&M chief executive Karl Johan Persson in the company’s financial statement for the first nine months of its 2018/19 financial year. He added, “Looking ahead, we remain humble considering the challenges brought by the rapid shift in fashion retail. Our transformation work is therefore continuing at a fast pace in all parts of the company.”

At the same time, H&M is testing new and innovative ideas, with a fresh emphasis on sustainability. Shoppers at its new Stockholm store, for example, can now rent skirts and dresses from its Conscious Exclusive collections. The store is designed to be more inspirational, displaying images shoppers have shared of how they wear H&M products. But it’s also convenient, with payment available through self-service checkouts. In the Netherlands, H&M is testing a bicycle delivery option that’s particularly relevant to that market. In the UK, shoppers can recycle clothes at any H&M store, receiving a £5 voucher in exchange for each bag.

H&M’s strategy is about getting closer and more convenient for its customers. The figures suggest that it seems to be working. Online sales grew by 30% in the first nine months of its 2018/19 year, and overall sales by 12%, while pre-tax profits after one-off costs were 25% ahead, compared to the same time in the previous year.  

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Privacy Overview

• Name of CEO/Founder: Helena Helmersson
• State | Country : Stockholm, Sweden
• Date of incorporation: 1947

Vision and Mission Statement

To lead the change towards circular and renewable fashion while being a fair and equal company.

H&M is currently working on making its packaging completely recyclable and compostable. They also want to make their product range 100% recyclable by 2030.

Achievements in Sustainability

Anna Gedda, Head of Sustainability, quoted, “Big change requires bold actions and the courage to aim high. At the same time, we have to be humble to the challenges our planet is facing. So if we want to make a real change, we have to be brave, push the boundaries and not be afraid to fail.”

H&M has always stood by this statement. Over the years, it has set an example for many other leading companies with its astonishing sustainability plans and projects.

In June 2018, H&M launched Afound. Afound works towards giving unsold products across 300+ brands, including H&M, a new life cycle. You can find past and present season products inclusive of used and vintage commodities possessing the range of discount of 25-70% on their platform. Currently, Afound is only available in Sweden and the Netherlands.

H&M also started the take care concept. The take care concept offers direction on how to do small repairs and fixes by yourself, which prolongs the product’s life. Through the H&M’s app, users can access methods and advice like how to remove lipstick stains or how to reattach buttons and many more. They also offer a variety of products, for instance, sewing kits, environmental-friendly detergents, washing bags that collect microfibres, plus more.

H&M has its recycling service too. Customers can return products they no longer want to the store. About 50-60% of the second-hand items are resold. The next 35-45% of the collected items are remade into something new. The remaining proportion of 3-7% is used as combustibles for energy production. 

The company is also experimenting with new and productive ideas. For example, H&M built one of its stores in Stockholm, Sweden, primarily out of existing store materials or previous purchase leftovers. This maximized the utilization of resources and minimized the environmental impact.

More than 57% of its supply chain consists of recycled materials. In addition to recycling materials like cotton, polyester, nylon, wool, cashmere, and numerous other things, they also are collaborating with people to tackle the problem of recycling blended fibers. 95% of the cotton in their products is sustainable or recycled.

H&M’s value chain is connected to innumerable people and businesses around the globe, who together are creating a positive impact on the world.

Quick pointers:

• H&M was launched in 1947 in Sweden.
• In June 2018, H&M launched Afound. Afound works towards giving unsold products across 300+ brands, including H&M, a new life cycle, at a discount of 25-70% on their platform. Currently, Afound is only available in Sweden and the Netherlands.
• H&M also started the take care concept. The take care concept offers an app that gives direction to users on how to do small repairs and DIY fixes, which prolongs the product’s life.
• H&M has its recycling service too. Customers can return products they no longer want to the store. About 50-60% of the second-hand items are resold. The next 35-45% of the collected items are remade into something new. The remaining proportion of 3-7% is used as combustibles for energy production.
• The company is also experimenting with new and productive ideas. H&M built one of its stores in Stockholm, Sweden, primarily out of existing store materials or previous purchase leftovers. This maximized the utilization of resources and minimized the environmental impact.
• More than 57% of its supply chain consists of recycled materials. In addition to recycling materials like cotton, polyester, nylon, wool, cashmere, and numerous other things, they also are collaborating with people to tackle the problem of recycling blended fibers.
• 95% of the cotton in their products is sustainable or recycled.
• Their vision is to lead the change towards circular and renewable fashion while being a fair and equal company.

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The H&M Greenwashing Scandal: Has Business Learned the Lesson?

Despite its claims, h&m ranked c (mediocre) on the just published impakter sustainability index and is currently not sustainable; the index analysts concluded that if the retail brand genuinely pursues the goals it has set for itself and reports transparently, it could become “greener”.

Last summer, Quartz carried out an explosive investigation into H&M’s claims that it was sustainable and accused the fast fashion brand of “greenwashing” — i.e., making false or misleading claims about their sustainability efforts, particularly through the use (or misuse) of the Higg Index , which is H&M sustainability certification system.

That was some seven months ago. The question now is: Has H&M management learned its lesson, and is the company on its way to sustainability?

This week, a new report was published by the Impakter Sustainability Index indicating that H&M has certainly reacted and taken measures. But it also concluded that it remains to be seen how effective these measures will be as much depends on whether management will follow through with the promises made.

So what did H&M exactly do and how does it plan to climb out of its greenwashing scandal? To answer these questions, let’s proceed in order and start with where the problem began: The retail brand’s reporting challenges and its sustainability certification system, the Higg Index.

What does the Higgs index measure? Who is the Higg Index used by?

The Higg Index is an assessment tool devised to evaluate the environmental impact of a product throughout its lifecycle, from design to disposal.

As mentioned above, a Quartz investigation revealed that H&M’s self-reported Higg Index scores were often inaccurate or inflated, and the company was not fully transparent about its environmental impact. It even sometimes reported the opposite of what the Higg Index indicated.

Moreover, accusations did not come solely from the Quartz report. H&M was also criticised for continuing to rely on unsustainable practices, such as producing large quantities of fast fashion and using non-renewable materials.

These accusations did not involve just H&M: While the retail brand immediately indicated it would renew its efforts towards sustainability, including through its Conscious Collection and recycling initiatives , the accusations of greenwashing reverberated with many consumer brands, exposing the need for greater transparency to stakeholders, and greater accountability in the fashion industry’s sustainability efforts in general.

In response to the accusations of greenwashing, H&M has pledged to accelerate its efforts and become fully transparent about its environmental impact by 2023 , including publishing a list of suppliers and disclosing the environmental impact of each product and other relevant data.

The company has also set ambitious goals for sustainability, as highlighted by the latest Index sustainability report for H&M. These goals include using 100% sustainably sourced materials by 2030 and becoming climate positive by 2030.

What’s wrong with sustainability reporting?

It is not uncommon for consumers and even savvy investors to be confused by the sustainability ratings of fashion brands. The H&M greenwashing scandal has only added to the confusion.

It is worth taking a moment to look more closely at what is wrong with sustainability reporting frameworks — both ratings and reports.

These ratings are often provided by third-party organisations that evaluate brands based on a variety of criteria, such as their use of sustainable materials, their carbon footprint, and their labour practices (hence the need for EU to create a standardized framework, such as the new Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive .

There are a large number of different sustainability certifications and ratings used by fashion brands.

Here are some of the most well-known examples of sustainability reports:

• B-Corp : This certification evaluates a company’s overall social and environmental performance, including factors such as worker treatment, community involvement, and environmental impact;
• Good On You : This rating system evaluates brands based on their impact on people, the planet, and animals. Ratings range from “We Avoid” to “Great”;
• Eco-Stylist : Eco-Stylist evaluates brands based on their use of sustainable materials, fair labor practices, and environmental impact. Ratings range from bronze to platinum;
• Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): recognized as the most important standards for sustainable production of garments and textiles made from natural fibers from organic farming as organic cotton or organic wool;
• Fair Trade Certified : widely recognised sustainable sourcing model that improves livelihoods and builds resilient transparent supply chains;
• Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) : Today almost a quarter of the world’s cotton is produced under this Standard. Strives for a world where cotton farmers and workers are better resilient to climate change, threats to the environment and even global pandemics;
• Bluesign : focuses on better chemicals and chemical processes for the textile industry;
• Cradle to Cradle Certified : To fight climate change, circularity of resources is key; this certificate ensures that a company applies circular economy best practices for their materials and product life cycle.

Each of these certifications focuses on different aspects of sustainability and processes of a business, such as organic farming practices, fair labour conditions, and responsible chemical use.

However, ratings are far from bulletproof and can vary depending on the sustainability standards used by each organisation.

In other words, a certification or rating does not necessarily guarantee that a brand is fully sustainable or transparent . And this aspect is fully taken into account by the Impakter Index analysts, as they go through a brand’s certificates, determining which are the most reputable certificates and retaining for their evaluation of sustainability only those certificates that are most reliable and credible.

The role of meaningful sustainability reports in the race to become a sustainable business

In addition to certifications and ratings, sustainability reports provide consumers and investors with a look at whether a business has transparent and verifiable sustainability practices.

This is precisely what the Impakter Index team of analysts does: verify whether a company is in fact sustainable through a close analysis of the company’s own reports that are often either not transparent or make misleading or not credible claims.

As a result, the Impakter Sustainability Index is not just another rating, but a multi-dimensional scoring system that combines sustainability ratings with reports.

A company’s sustainability reporting can only be considered as fairly reliable and trustworthy if it includes as a first step publicly available information on its business’ website about its supply chain, materials sourcing, and environmental impact.

Sustainability reports should follow a standardised format and that is what the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI ) seeks to provide. It has its praises and drawbacks.

The GRI Standards

Founded in 1997, GRI is an international organisation that provides standards and guidelines for sustainability reporting. The GRI Standards are widely used by companies and organisations to report on their environmental, social, and governance (ESG) performance .

On the good side, the GRI Standards provide a framework for reporting on a wide range of sustainability topics, including greenhouse gas emissions, labour practices, human rights, and supply chain management. The use of GRI Standards allows companies to present to stakeholders, including investors, employees and customers, their sustainability performance with data that is (possibly) transparent but (most certainly)  comparable across their industry.

On the other hand, there are some problems with sustainability reporting as currently performed.

One major criticism is that it relies on self-reported data from companies , which may not always be accurate or complete.

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Additionally, the GRI Standards are voluntary and not legally binding , which means that companies may choose not to report on certain sustainability issues or may not report accurately.

Finally, the GRI Standards cover a wide range of sustainability topics, which can make it difficult for companies to prioritise and focus on the most important issues .

Despite these limitations, the GRI Standards remain a valuable tool for promoting transparency and accountability in sustainability reporting. It is worth noting that GRI standards are fully integrated into the Impakter Index and is certainly a major tool in strengthening the evaluation of a company’s avowed sustainability.

The role of the Impakter Sustainability Index: Assisting consumers and investors in identifying the most reliably “green” brands

But GRI, while it is among the best, is not the only one. The other certificates listed above also need to be taken into account insofar as they add useful information to the overall picture: Businesses seeking to become sustainable collect them and the more reputable ones, as noted above, are used by Impakter Index analysts to arrive at an evaluation of a brand’s sustainability that is as complete as possible, on the basis of the most reliable certificates currently available .

However, as mentioned above, Impakter Index analysts don’t stop there and cover more aspects: They also critically analyze sustainability reports and look at the overall environment in which a company operates, including external reports and news in the media, particularly focusing on greenwashing scandals as was the case with H&M. This points at the importance of thorough and consistent sustainability reporting through measurable targets and progresses.

H&M is a case in point: Rated C on the Impakter Index

To companies, the Impakter Index offers an innovative, objective and democratic sustainability reporting methodology, based on the UN sustainable development goals.

Notwithstanding the greenwashing accusations and the subsequent scandal, rated through Impakter Index, H&M received a C (mediocre) on the Impakter Index and not a D (poor) or an F (fail).

Still, a C rating on the Impakter Index is a poor score and H&M will need to make special efforts to “climb out” of its greenwashing scandal. As the Index report concludes:

These scandals are a clear sign that the path to sustainability of H&M is still long, that the changes implemented require consolidation and more transparency also internally to the company, and that the company needs to prove specific progress in order to earn a better rating and regain the trust of consumers.

So why is the Impakter Index not rating it D or even F?

First, as the Impakter Index report notes: H&M has ambitious goals and has drawn a clear path to sustainability for itself :

H&M is pledging to achieve net-zero by 2040 and to cut its absolute emissions by 56% by 2030, which stand behind H&M climate goals.

As the report further notes, some efforts have been made to achieve these goals: For example, using more recycled materials in its clothing — which now has climbed up to 17.9% of the total produced. Also, efforts to use less water and more environmentally friendly packaging are reported.

This, by itself, would not be enough. However, H&M has earned some further “good points” as noted in the Impakter report, namely:

…it has numerous partnerships to create more technological means to accomplish its objectives and support biodiversity. More women than in any other company make up a significant portion of the board.

How can H&M achieve a real sustainability impact?

The following table provided in the Impakter Index report indicates what H&M would be well-advised to do to achieve its goals:

As shown above, H&M is pursuing several relevant certificates which would improve the processes and products of the brand. While these efforts are commendable, it remains to be seen whether H&M will be able to follow through on its promises and address its unsustainable practices.

A takeaway message: Empowering investors and consumers through clear sustainability reporting

The problem exposed by the “Higg scandal” is not limited to H&M. The fashion industry as a whole faces significant challenges in reducing its environmental impact, and it will take a collective effort from companies, consumers, and policymakers to create a more sustainable future for fashion.

Ultimately, the H&M greenwashing accusations serve as a reminder of the importance of transparency and accountability in the fashion industry, and the importance of sustainability reports in revealing a company’s efforts toward ethical products and processes.

As the fashion industry continues to face environmental challenges, it is crucial for companies like H&M to prioritize sustainability and take meaningful steps towards reducing their impact on the planet.

It is worth closing this article by recalling the role of the Impakter Index. By thoroughly researching brands and asking questions about their sustainability practices, it is designed to help:

• Businesses on their path to sustainability , offering an innovative, objective and democratic sustainability reporting methodology, based on the UN sustainable development goals;
• assist investors in identifying the most reliably green businesses , the ones most likely to provide the best returns on investment.

Ultimately, the Index empowers consumers to make more informed purchasing decisions and support brands that align with their values. In short, it empowers consumers to “vote for sustainability” with their wallet. We can all — consumers and investors — play a role in holding companies accountable by demanding transparency and supporting brands with proven sustainability efforts, also thanks to clear rating systems such as the one provided by Impakter Index.

Read more on greenwashing in our series on the topic:

The 5 sins of Greenwashing In The Fashion Industry

Greenwashing Warning Signs: How to Spot Them

Why We Need a Legal Definition for ‘Greenwashing’

Chanel Sustainability: Is The Iconic Luxury Brand Greenwashing?

Greenwashers Beware: Your Sustainability Exaggerations Are About to Get Expensive

Editor’s Note:  The opinions expressed here by the authors are their own, not those of Impakter.com  —  In the Featured Photo : The H&M logo on a building. Featured Photo Credit : Wikimedia Commons.

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Camilla Ponte

Camilla is Italian and passionate about science and scientific communication for sustainability. She spent the past 11 years based between the Netherlands and a bunch of other countries around the world. From these international experiences she learned to make clarity, kindness and understanding the backbone of her work with international teams. She also learned that there's nothing like a simple answer to a complex question, but that one can always try to answer in a simple way. She graduated in 2016 from Wageningen University in the Netherlands, with a MSc in Technology, Communication and Policy and a minor in sustainable agriculture. She worked within several sustainable agriculture initiatives, and as a project manager in software production for the past three years. Now she is excited to join Impakter as a project manager and research coordinator!

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How h&m is striving to become a sustainable fashion brand.

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H&M's Conscious Exclusive Collection with Christy Turlington Burns.

As one of the most visible fashion retailers in the world, with vast resources at its disposal, the H&M Group (H&M, COS, & Other Stories, Weekday and Monki) has the capability to truly sway commerce. The Swedish firm, which was founded in 1947, grew immensely in the ’90s by offering runway-ready pieces at bargain price points, altering how clothes were purchased by the masses. Indeed, along with Inditex (which owns Zara), Gap Inc. and others, the H&M Group—particularly H&M—made looking stylish accessible to those couldn’t afford the astronomical sums presented by designer labels.

As a result, fast-fashion took hold of the industry, and with that came the appetite to offer apparel and accessories at a rapid rate—to feed the best, so to speak. And to do this while still remaining profitable, many companies began cutting corners, administering unsafe labor practices abroad and using synthetic fibers that have proven to be ecologically damaging.

Arguably, according to the brand, H&M has stayed above the fray. In a 124-page report, the firm outlined its history, strategy and trajectory on leading the charge for sustainability in fashion. It’ll also be launching the seventh edition of its Conscious Exclusive Collection—a line that uses 100% regenerated nylon fiber and recycled silver—on April 19th with Christy Turlington Burns as its face. After a string of controversies over a racially insensitive image and a copyright lawsuit, this announcement looks as if it is trying to temper the public outcry. Though, supposedly, fostering an eco-friendly mindset has been a longstanding policy.

Here to elaborate on the H&M Group’s focus on sustainability is Anna Gedda, the head of sustainability at H&M.

How would you describe the state of the fashion industry today?

The fashion industry today has a big voice in the world, which is great because that means we also have the ability to be heard and effect change that can be beneficial for the whole planet. We are at a time when access to information is everywhere and people can be more involved with brands and designers via social media like never before, and this, to us, is very interesting. Without a doubt, we are living during interesting times due to technological progress that are changing what the industry looks like. Looking ahead, we see great innovations in materials and great breakthroughs in chemical textile and textile recycling technologies that will redefine the industry in the future.

Where would you categorize the H&M Group in the industry?

We want to be and be seen as leaders in the industry; that we are making big goals in order to work toward a more sustainable fashion future. We want to lead the change towards circular and renewable fashion while being a fair and equal company.

For so long, fast-fashion brands have been marked for their lack of sustainability and corrupt labor practices. What is the H&M Group’s stance on this?

We cannot talk on behalf of others, but in our case, it has always been of utmost importance that our products are made under good working conditions and with consideration to the environment, health and safety. We have been working in all these areas for many years. Even when we compete on the street level with other players, there shouldn’t be any competition when it comes to sustainability. This is a time when we should all be working collaboratively to effect industry wide change and make big impacts together. We want to be known as a leader in sustainability, where we not only talk the talk, but we walk the walk and pave the way.

How do you define sustainability?

To provide fashion and quality at the best price in a sustainable way, we have to change the way fashion is made and enjoyed today. We want to lead the change toward circular and renewable fashion, while being a fair and equal company. Maybe here I would redefine the question: To us, sustainability is everything we do as company, all our actions, to take responsibility on the impact we have on people and workers along the value chain, and also on the planet and natural resources needed to create our collections. When we define sustainability, we always take a long-term vision of the business, so we use the resources not only in a way to meet the demand of present generation, but also future generations. And if we want to continue to be relevant for future generations, we have to think how fashion is made and enjoyed today.

What drove the company to become labor and eco-conscious?  

The H&M group has a long history of working with sustainability, dating back to the 90s. For us, it has always been important to act in a way that makes it possible not just for present, but also for future generations to enjoy fashion. We regularly lift our ambitions to the next level to push the boundaries.

What is the company doing to be more sustainable year after year?

We have three significant future facing goals that we are working on, which are: By 2020, all of the cotton that H&M uses will come from more sustainable sources. We are one of the biggest users of organic cotton and recycled cotton and we are the biggest buyer of Better Cotton. By 2030, all of the products that H&M makes will come from more sustainable or recycled sources. We are one the biggest users of recycled polyester and in this year’s Conscious Exclusive collection we use Econyl which is 100% regenerated nylon fiber made from fishnets and other nylon waste. By 2040, H&M will be climate positive across its entire value chain. A truly circular business model can only be powered by renewable energy. Today we are at 96%.

How would you describe the Conscious Exclusive Collection? How does this line differ from other collections in the H&M Group?

The H&M Conscious Exclusive collections are recurring fashion collections in the forefront of H&M’s sustainability work. The collections aim to move H&M’s fashion and sustainability development and innovation forward towards a sustainable fashion future. The collections are made from sustainable materials and offer our design team an opportunity to experiment with new, interesting sustainable materials. The Conscious Exclusive Collection for 2018 is inspired by famous the Swedish artists’ Karin and Carl Larsson’s creative and beautiful home in the province of Dalarna, Sweden. Handcrafted tapestries and embroideries, Karin’s love for their garden, as well as the contrasting characteristics of the rooms in the house have been interpreted by H&M’s Conscious Exclusive Design team into prints, jacquards and embroideries on beautifully crafted garments and accessories made from sustainable materials.

H&M's Conscious Exclusive Collection

Do you think the average consumer really cares about buying a sustainable product? Do you think being a sustainable firm will help the bottom line?

Our customers and fans are really into our Conscious Exclusive collection every year, and we know that there is a lot of interest in more sustainable materials in our everyday offering as well. We need to move towards a more circular model for the future for the long-term sustainability of the not only the planet but the business as well.

When do you think the H&M Group 100% sustainable?

We have developed a strong roadmap to achieve our sustainability vision and this roadmap includes all the goals we are working towards. Our goal to only use sustainable cotton by 2020, our aim to only use recycled and other sustainably sourced materials by 2030, our ambition to become climate positive by 2040 are some examples. But on a daily basis, we also address many other areas, such as wages, as we constantly visit our suppliers by our dedicated teams based in our productions offices. By 2018, our goal was to set up democratically elected worker representative committees and improved wage management systems at suppliers representing 50% of our product volume.

The company says that it is “leading the change.” Do you really think others—with fewer resources—will follow suit?

Sustainability is not a matter of how big or small a company is, but we play different roles. As we are a global company, we have the capability to influence. But we want to influence the industry as whole towards a sustainable fashion future, not just our own business. With this we mean that other players are not excluded, in fact we collaborate on an industry level when it comes to sustainability, since we all face the same challenges.

Follow Barry Samaha on Twitter ( @barry_samaha ) and Instagram ( @barrysamaha ).

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H&M Is Being Sued for Greenwashing. What Does That Mean For Fashion?

Last month, a lawsuit was filed against Swedish fast-fashion giant H&M in New York federal court, accusing it of it “greenwashing,” or engaging in false advertising about the sustainability of its clothing. The lawsuit was brought forward by Chelsea Commodore, a SUNY New Paltz marketing student who alleged she had overpaid for a fashion piece marketed as “conscious” that really … wasn’t. In fact, she claims, several pieces of the brand’s Conscious Collection products were advertised as using less water to manufacture when they actually use more . H&M claims the discrepancy was the result of technical issues.

This lawsuit could be a watershed (sorry) moment for fashion. Sustainability as a marketing tactic could go extinct. And maybe it should?

H&M is just one example of many fashion companies that profit from claiming that certain pieces of clothing are sustainable. And the lawsuit is the culmination of a decade of fierce global debate. Sure, H&M is consistently top ranked when it comes to transparency, and it’s more fastidious than most about documenting in hard numbers its efforts at reducing its climate footprint. But a June investigation by Quartz showed that its new environmental scorecards for products were misleading. This is happening globally. In the U.K., the Competition and Markets Authority is investigating ASOS and Boohoo for greenwashing because of their vague claims .

Although the lawsuit has to do with the price of the piece, the accusations in the suit read like a greatest hits of all the criticisms of the global fashion industry and its broken promises to reform. They include using vague language like “close the loop” and “a conscious choice,” calling products “sustainable” even though they use fossil-fuel-based synthetics that shed plastic microfibers, taking back old clothes for recycling only to induce customers to buy more, and — most important for this suit — exploiting our collective climate guilt to charge us more for same-quality clothes.

In reality, the big brands have accomplished very little . The fashion industry has not meaningfully reduced its carbon footprint ( it hasn’t even really measured it ). Textile-to-textile recycling barely exists, and what the industry calls “recycling” is mostly downcycling to lower-value products and shipping clothing around the world to low-income countries, where a large portion of it ends up in the landfill. A lot of the “certified organic” cotton is fake , and fossil-fuel-based textiles continue to dominate .

The problem with the lawsuit stems from a larger question the fashion industry is not ready to answer: What actually makes a piece of fashion sustainable?

More than a decade ago, the Sustainable Apparel Coalition — whose membership now includes almost 150 retailers, from Amazon to Reformation, as well as factories and nonprofits — was established to answer that question. One of the SAC’s goals was to come up with a way to measure the impacts of a product, then put that on a label for shoppers so we could make better choices.

It turns out to be a very complicated question to answer. For even the simplest products — a cotton T-shirt, for example — environmental impacts include the growth and harvesting of cotton; the chemicals used to scour, bleach, dye it, and finish it, and whether the dye house treats its wastewater; the electricity and coal-fired boilers at the factories; and the transportation of it all over the globe. Multiply that by a dozen materials for a more complicated product and again by 25,000 — for the number of products H&M puts up on its website a year — and you get an idea of the scale of data collection required.

So the SAC came up with the Higg Index, a suite of tools that collects data on the fashion industry’s supply chain and rates it for sustainability. While Higg’s offerings include a module that collects data from and rates factories, its Material Sustainability Index has been the most controversial. It offers scorecards that show on average how much water use, water pollution, fossil-fuel use, chemical use, and greenhouse-gas emissions can be attributed to all sorts of materials from leather to linen to PVC. (H&M chose to use this average global metric to undergird its pilot project of environmental scorecards.)

But there are differing opinions on what is actually sustainable. For example, PETA has used the scorecards to say that synthetics are more sustainable than animal products, which wool and leather trade groups did not like .

Defenders of natural materials say the measurements don’t include things such as synthetic microfibers, the length it takes synthetic materials to completely biodegrade (200 years, maybe?), or the fact that the ease of producing cheap polyester from oil has contributed to the ever-rising amount of throwaway fashion. The other criticism levied against the organization is that any global average for natural materials, which come not from standardized factories but from wildly different farms all over the world, will be inaccurate and misleading.

The organization would prefer that interest groups stop using it to compare totally different fibers. It’s said designers should use whatever material they want — for the look, hand-feel, and performance — and just upgrade to a more sustainable organic or recycled version.

“If you’re inducing somebody to buy a product based on those claims, that’s false advertising,” says Maxine Bédat, an author , fashion-sustainability expert, and co-creator of New York State’s proposed Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act . She says Higg’s material averages should have been used just as a broad starting point, not as a marketing claim on a specific product.

Many people don’t think a brand with H&M’s cheap-and-fast business model can ever be sustainable no matter how much of its cotton is organic and recycled. Higg’s CEO, Jason Kibbey, hits back at this notion. “If you just try to make it exclusive, so that cute little boutique-y brands with cool young founders are the only ones that are sustainable, you’re not moving the needle,” he says.

Higg was created during an entirely different era of “conscious capitalism,” when we thought if we just educated consumers, then they would vote with their dollars for a better world. Given how effective calorie counts on menus were (LOL) , there is not much reason to have faith on this. In fact, despite survey after survey in which consumers say they would pay more for sustainable fashion, we rarely do . This lawsuit just might be the death knell for the vaunted “consumer education” theory of change.

Now, as the West Coast burns, the Loire River dries up , Kentucky drowns , and plastic forms part of the geologic record , Higg and H&M both find themselves trapped in a thorny thicket of anger and despair about whether we can ever repair the damage that overconsumption has wrought on our planet.

“No, brands should not be doing that,” Bédat says of showing false stats on product pages. “And if it takes a lawsuit for them to stop doing that, then that’s a powerful way to do it.” But, she points out, the practice of measuring carbon footprints for products is a brand-spankin’ new field. She and Kibbey share a concern that this lawsuit could halt what little progress the fashion industry has made toward measuring and reducing its environmental impacts. “I think we have to … highlight the things that need to change and change them,” she says. “But don’t throw the baby out with the bathwater.”

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Does H&M genuinely contribute to a sustainable future?

Torger Dyrnes, Herman Rognaldsen, Martine K. Nilsen, Vy H. Nguyen

Despite efforts to become “greener”, the fast-fashion pioneer does not genuinely contribute to a sustainable future. The problem lies within its core operating business model.

Recognizing corporate social responsibilities benefits, many companies today address the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and how they contribute to reach the goals. Swedish retailer H&M, one of the most recognizable fashion brands, is no exception.

Many sustainability measures, but are they enough?

In the latest sustainability report, H&M claimed to have contributed directly and indirectly to all SDGs. Through initiatives such as reducing emissions in their supply chain, incorporating recycled materials in products, and maximizing product life through repair services, the message across the intensive 84-page report is very clear: H&M is doing their best to become a more sustainable company. However, careful analysis of their business model made us believe that H&M is not doing enough for sustainability as they claimed to be, specifically regarding Goal 12 “Responsible production and consumption”.

The problem of fast fashion

H&M adopted a “fast fashion” business model, where new clothing moves quickly, with lower quality and prices than their competitors. H&M does not wish to portray themselves as a “fast fashion” supplier, however, they are considered as one of the global industry leaders.

H&M consumes massive resources to produce billions of clothing pieces. Their efficient supply chain is also a big source of pollution. Their production line can be found in developing countries in Europe and Asia, but their products are sold all over the world, resulting in enormous emissions through transportation and shipping.

Furthermore, by constantly offering new collections at low prices, H&M has intentionally encouraged consumers to frequently buy and discard clothes. These proved that fast fashion has a great cost on the environment and is not in line with Goal 12, which is about increasing resource efficiency and promoting a sustainable lifestyle, as well as making economic profit while doing “green” investments (United Nations, n.d).

Fueling consumerism

H&M has been trying to advertise themselves as a sustainable business through various campaigns and initiatives, notably is the launch of their “Conscious” collection in 2016, offering sustainably made pieces. However, consumers and skeptics saw this as a cover-up solution in order to hide their attitude towards low-cost, high-volume, and trend-based business.

When H&M offers customers discount vouchers to donate clothing, it only fuels more consumption of fashion and continues to support the problems of the throwaway society.

Who is to blame?

Some might argue that H&M is producing loads of clothing as a response to market demands. If that is the case then all the blame should not be put on the industry, but rather the consumers. However, consumerism in terms of overproduction and consumption makes factories produce around 100 billion items of clothing each year. Clothing production exceeded 100 billion by 2014, which was a doubling since 2000.

Despite clothing production doubling in those years, the average person only buys 60% more clothes than what they did in 2000, and the lifetime of clothes has been reduced by 50%. This expansion in fast fashion has been led mainly by H&M and Zara, and given that the demand has increased less than production, we have to blame the industry for the overproduction issue.

The problem of overproduction

Furthermore, one pillar of H&M’s sustainability strategy is “Circular and Climate Positive”, the company aims to become a fully circular business that is climate positive by 2040. Yet H&M’s net emissions of direct and indirect emissions of greenhouse gasses increased by 18% in 2020. This result is interesting as the COVID-19 pandemic reportedly led to reduced orders and production. As such, they have seen a smaller demand for clothing and still produced more emissions of greenhouse gasses, this also goes to show that they do produce more than demanded.

 A new business model needed

Sustainability is nothing new to H&M. The company started to publish annual sustainability reports in 2002 and adopted SDGs from 2016. Still, H&M has chosen to neglect fast fashion model problems and continued to supply more clothes than demand to gain endless profit.

The company should bear the responsibility to reduce production to a sustainable level and make their clothes more durable. However, this is not in accordance with the definition of a player in the fast fashion industry. To comply with Goal 12, H&M would need to change their whole business model. Otherwise, they will never genuinely contribute to a sustainable future as they claimed.

- Cobbing, M., & Vicaire, Y. (2017, September 7). Fashion at the crossroads. Greenpeace.  - Troberg, A., & Söderlund, C. (2021, March 22). H&M group sustainability performance report . H&M Group.  - United Nations. (n.d). Sustainable Development Goals. Goal 12: Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns.  

Winner of Opinion Essay Competition 2021

This essay is the winner of this year's BIs sustainability opinion essay competition. The students received a prize of 5000 NOK. Read more about the competition.

Torger Dyrnes

Herman rognaldsen, martine k. nilsen, vy h. nguyen.

Published 2. November 2021

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Case study On How H&M is Slowing Taking Initiatives Towards Sustainability Being a Fast Fashion Brand

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H&M is one of the largest fast-fashion companies with over 4856 stores around the world and a mass online presence. Recently, H&M has decided to switch to a more sustainable and greener outlook. The Swedish multinational company is a popular choice among teens and young adults because of its trendy clothing lines and affordable prices.

The push towards the green and sustainable movement might seem like an attempt to keep up with the current trends, but in honesty, H&M started its journey towards sustainability long back in the 2010s and is rapidly speeding towards its goal to go 100% sustainable by the year 2040.

The Sustainable Timeline

2010: H&M launches its first fully sustainable collection. 

2013: Garment Collecting is introduced in all H&M stores for reuse and recycling purposes. 

2015: H&M launches The Global Change Award, to encourage designs and innovations to switch from linear to the circular fashion industry. 

2019: H&M becomes one of the first brands to provide details on the product level, about the materials used and the supply chain. 

2020: Ranked number 1 in Fashion Revolution’s Fashion Transparency Index. 

The Three Rs

As a part of the circular and climate positive initiative, H&M has planned to practice the three Rs. H&M’s garment collecting initiative collects tons of clothes, which are then sorted into three groups:

Re-wear: H&M sorts out clothes that are not damaged and can be worn again, and puts them in the thrift section for them to be sold as second-hand clothes. 

Reuse: Clothes that are slightly damaged are reused by H&M to make other products. 

Recycling: The clothes which do not go in the first two piles are turned into textile fibers. 

The 4 Climate Positive Pillars 

H&M plans to become completely climate positive by the year 2040 with the help of these four pillars:

Renewable Energy: H&M is planning to increase the use of renewable energy in their supply chain. 

Energy Efficiency: H&M is actively trying to reduce the energy consumed in their value chain.

Circularity: H&M is successfully implementing the steps to become a fully circular business. 

Nature-Based Solution: H&M is constantly working and collaborating with organizations like WWF to find ways to reduce carbon emissions in the environment. 

The Circular System 

The three Rs are a part of something much bigger - The Circular System. H&M aims to become climate positive by applying these three Cs of the Circular System:

Circular Products: Products that are made to last and are made from safe and sustainable material. H&M aims to design the products in such a way that they can be repurposed with the power of the 3 Rs, multiple times. 

Circular Supply Chains: H&M is continuously working on making an improved supply chain where the products are kept in circulation and supports circular production processes and material flow. 

Circular Customer Journey: H&M aims to engage the customers in the circular initiative by making sure that they can easily participate and join in the circular fashion, where the 3 Rs are practiced religiously. 

Fabrics with a Lighter Footprint

H&M believes that the fashion industry heavily relies on natural fabrics. H&M continuously makes an effort to use sustainable fabrics. The aim of the company is to reuse as much as possible and reduce excess waste. Here is a list of fabrics that are commonly used by H&M:

• Cotton: By 2020, H&M achieved its goal to sustainably source the cotton used in their products. Cotton is the most common raw material/ fabric used by H&M.
• Recycled Polyester: Sports wear is commonly made from polyester, which is an artificial fabric. H&M uses recycled polyester - a more sustainable option, made from oil-based waste.
• Recycled Polyamide: Another artificial fabric, popular among underwear and pantyhose. H&M repurposes old fishing nets and carpets to make this fabric; they also utilize the excess waste from production. 
• Lyocell: A fabric more sustainable than cotton, Lycocell is a common fabric used in H&M products. Lyocell is made from the cellulose of wood and requires little to no irrigation or pesticides. 
• Recycled Wool: This material is sourced by H&M from either waste, cut-offs during production or the garment collecting initiative. This wool is repurposed and used in outdoor clothing like scarves, mittens, hats and gloves. 
• Organic Linen: Linen, a fabric made from flax plants, is widely seen in the H&M’s product range. H&M takes it one step further and ensures that the flax plants are grown organically- without pesticides and chemical fertilizers. 
• Organic Silk: The highest quality of fabric, sourced from trees that are grown without chemicals and pesticides. The quality of both organic and sustainable silk is the same, the only difference is one is sustainable and the other isn’t. 
• Natural Rubber: H&M uses FSC certified natural rubber. These rubbers are grown naturally with minimum interference of any chemical body and are renewable and recyclable. 
• Recycled Glass: H&M uses recycled glass to design or create embellishments for clothes, accessories and home decor. The quality of the products stay intact and are still trendy. 
• Recycled Plastic: H&M uses PET plastic like water bottles, juice bottles and shampoo bottles. These recycled products are repurposed into cute accessories and save the planet from getting a bucket full of plastic. 
• Recycled Cashmere: It is heartbreaking if the most beloved fabric ends in the landfill, so H&M recycles the cashmere that they find from post-consumer, post-industrial waste and cut-offs from productions. 
• Recycled Down Feathers: H&M uses the feathers from old blankets, pillows or clothes. This way it is able to use fewer chemicals and energy. 
• Organic Jute: This fabric comes from the most low maintenance plant - the white jute plant. The white jute plant’s fiber is extracted to make this fabric.
• Recycled Silver: H&M uses silver found in old discarded jewellery, silverware, candle stands and coins. This way they are able to reduce the negative effects of mining and save tons of energy. 
• Wood: H&M only sources woods that are FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified.
• Recycled Wood: H&M uses FSC certified recycled wood. This means the leftover wood and/or wood’s pulp is used by H&M to reduce waste.
• Recycled Paper: H&M uses FSC recycled paper, however, this doesn’t ensure that the wood used to make the paper came from an FSC approved forest. 

H&M is making major leaps toward the sustainable slow fashion movement. The CEO - Helena Helmersson, believes that with the power of collaboration and partnership, H&M will be able to make some big changes. Last year, H&M used 64.5% of sustainable and recycled products. There was a 14% decrease in the packaging and 100% of the cotton was organic and sourced in a sustainable way. In these ways, H&M is one of the biggest brands that is making climate-conscious efforts. 

If your brand is looking to make some leaps towards sustainable fashion as well but is struggling to figure out where to source the clothing materials from, Fashinza can help. At Fashinza, we believe in providing sustainable and futuristic solutions. 

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A post occupancy evaluation of the space utilization of cultural heritage in children’s education: a case study of wuhan’s historical districts, china.

1. Introduction

2. literature review, 2.1. cultural heritage utilization, 2.2. post occupancy evaluation, 2.3. children’s heritage education, 3. materials and methods, 3.1. research object: historical districts of wuhan, china, 3.2. the post occupancy evaluation, 3.3. system of post occupancy evaluation.

• Field investigation and interview: This stage mainly included recording and studying the current situation of space utilization of historical blocks, and interviewing subjects involved in the process, aiming to understand the basic cultural information of the area and identify the challenges and influencing factors of space utilization for educational purposes.
• Establish a hierarchy ( Table 2 ): Completion of the evaluation of the space utilization of cultural heritage education involves three parts: the educational applicability of cultural heritage spaces [ 45 , 46 ]; the direct impact of educational activities on children [ 47 , 48 ]; and the project’s sustainability [ 49 ]. The evaluation was carried out on six levels: inheritance of historical context; improvement in environmental quality; completion of infrastructure; achievement of educational goals; participation of children in activities; and sustainable development. Through the comprehensive evaluation of these six levels, we can fully understand the effect of space utilization on cultural heritage education, and provide the basis and direction for future improvement.
• Evaluation Indicator Weight ( Table 3 ): Five experts engaged in related fields were invited to participate in the questionnaire stage, and the Delphi method was used to solicit opinions on the weight of the evaluation system. The total weights for this component of the evaluation were computed using the hierarchical analysis approach, which took the average of the weights for each indication.
• The final evaluation indicator includes six second-level, 15 third-level, and 38 fourth-level indicators ( Table 2 ).

4.1. Expert-Based Evaluation

4.2. children-based evaluation, 5. discussion, 6. conclusions, author contributions, data availability statement, conflicts of interest.

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Xiao, W.; Yoon, J.-E. A Post Occupancy Evaluation of the Space Utilization of Cultural Heritage in Children’s Education: A Case Study of Wuhan’s Historical Districts, China. Buildings 2024 , 14 , 2682. https://doi.org/10.3390/buildings14092682

Xiao W, Yoon J-E. A Post Occupancy Evaluation of the Space Utilization of Cultural Heritage in Children’s Education: A Case Study of Wuhan’s Historical Districts, China. Buildings . 2024; 14(9):2682. https://doi.org/10.3390/buildings14092682

Xiao, Wei, and Jae-Eun Yoon. 2024. "A Post Occupancy Evaluation of the Space Utilization of Cultural Heritage in Children’s Education: A Case Study of Wuhan’s Historical Districts, China" Buildings 14, no. 9: 2682. https://doi.org/10.3390/buildings14092682

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• Published: 31 August 2024

A multiscale and multiperspective quantifying framework for spatial patterns and influencing mechanisms of geographical indications

• Fulin Liu 1 ,
• Shixin Ding 1 ,
• Jinxing Zhang 1 &
• Yingying Wang   ORCID: orcid.org/0000-0001-5420-2909 2  

Humanities and Social Sciences Communications volume  11 , Article number:  1119 ( 2024 ) Cite this article

Metrics details

• Development studies

Geographical indications (GIs) embody distinctive regional elements characterized by widespread spatial distribution, serving as vital agricultural intellectual properties and significant tourism assets. This case study introduces a multiscale and multi-perspective quantification framework for Shandong Province, focusing on spatial agglomeration, association, and heterogeneity. This approach quantitatively explores GIs’ spatial patterns and influencing mechanisms, analyzing both at the monomer and regional scales, considering static and dynamic perspectives. Leveraging methods such as kernel density analysis, Moran’s I index, Geary’s C index, Internet hot word analysis, and Geodetector, the coastal municipalities, prosperous urban areas, and zones with high-quality arable soils were identified as spatial agglomeration areas for GIs. The study revealed a strong correlation between the spatial distribution pattern of socioeconomic factors and GIs’ spatial density from a static perspective. However, diminished spatial autocorrelation was observed for GIs’ public perception from a dynamic standpoint, indicating a reduced influence of Internet connectivity. The spatial heterogeneity in GIs is determined by multiple interconnected factors, displaying an enhancement effect between any two influencing factors. Among the 15 influencing factors analyzed, urbanization rate; gross value of agricultural, forestry, animal husbandry, and fishery production; and per capita gross domestic product significantly contribute to spatial heterogeneity effects at both urbanization rate, gross value of agriculture, forestry, animal husbandry, fishery production, and per capita gross domestic product significantly contributed to spatial heterogeneity effects at regional and monomer scales. The results suggest that GIs are likely to flourish with regional economic growth. The analytical framework and quantification methods support exploring and sustainably utilizing GIs, improving output quality, and modernizing GIs’ production, ultimately contributing to regional agriculture’s high-quality and sustainable development.

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Introduction.

Geographical indications (GIs) are markers for goods with distinct regional characteristics that often possess unique qualities and reputations (Tu and Zhu 2020 ). These characteristics reflect the natural and human factors of place of origin (Li 2020 ), thus granting the use of geographical names. These trademarked products represent the heritage of traditional knowledge and culture (Liu and Qin 2021 ), and play a crucial role in advancing local economies and rural development (Li 2021 ). The essence of GIs lies in the connections between products and their place of origin (Fei and Du 2020 ), indicating a distinct interplay between a region’s climate, geography, culture, and production technology. GIs are typically crafted within specific regions and become vital contributors to economic prosperity (Yu and Li, 2020 ). Additionally, the registration and protection of GI brands prevent illegal competition and infringement and uphold corporate reputation and market competitiveness (Lin and Sun 2020 ). The 19th National Congress of China highlighted agriculture, rural areas, and farmers as fundamental issues closely tied to the national economy and people’s livelihoods (Du 2021 ). In recent years, China’s Central No. 1 document has emphasized the importance of intellectual property protection in agriculture by developing green, organic, and regional agricultural products (Li et al. 2021 ). Furthermore, local governments increasingly prioritize declaring and registering GIs as new growth points for local economic development (Zhang et al. 2021 ). Therefore, as a crucial driver of rural revitalization in China, GIs are of significant practical importance as a contributor to accelerating agricultural modernization and promoting the agricultural economy.

Ji and Wang ( 2013 ) assert that GIs signifies the origin and quality attributes of agricultural products. Li ( 2021 ) emphasizes that GIs focus more on external forms to build regional brands. Cheng et al. ( 2017 ) categorize GIs as intellectual property with legal benefits. This study supplements and interprets the connotations of the compound geographical elements of GIs by establishing a robust theoretical foundation for future research. Existing studies on the spatial distribution patterns of regional geographical elements have primarily focused on traditional villages (Li et al. 2019 ), tourist resources (Ma et al. 2020 ), cultural heritage (Han 2017 ), agricultural products (Wang and Du 2021 ), and other socioeconomic factors. Furthermore, traditional industries face market imbalance and fierce competition due to rapid globalization and industrialization. Given GIs’ ties to internationally recognized products of specific regions, such as Chilean cherries, French champagne, and wine (Han 2020 ), numerous countries are increasingly focusing on GIs protection to enhance competitiveness in both domestic and international markets (Cassago et al. 2021 ; Hou 2021 ; Yang 2023 ). With China prioritizing GIs development and local enthusiasm for its applications, the growth of GIs in China is unprecedented. According to the 2021 Annual Report of the State Intellectual Property Office of China, there were 2490 registered GIs items and 6562 trademarks by the end of 2021. However, the report does not distinguish between foreign GIs and trademarks registered in China. The top five provinces in terms of GIs trademark registration were Shandong, Fujian, Sichuan, Hubei, and Jiangsu, accounting for 43.9% of the total registered volume. Some scholars have highlighted the challenge for China in achieving high-quality globally recognized GIs, as acceptance in international markets requires more exploration (Qian et al. 2023 ; Song 2018 ). French Bordeaux wine ranks first in the number of GIs trademarks owned by a single market entity (based on statistics from the State Intellectual Property Office), indicating its popularity in the Chinese market. The development of GIs in China started late, and their reputations were poor, necessitating reference and improvement in mature markets. Mutual recognition by GIs is poised to expedite this process. Despite China’s shortcomings in GIs management regulations, it is catching up with Europe’s pace of development.

Some studies on GIs focused on their economic significance, intellectual property rights, and impact on agricultural policies (Raustiala and Munzer 2007 ), where external environmental influences on GIs have been examined through a combined analysis of the macro-level economic environment and specific cases, and scholars proposing reference frames to offer new research directions for evaluation and analysis of GIs (Barjolle et al. 2009 ; Bramley et al. 2009 ). These studies intentionally explored the factors influencing GIs’ spatial patterns, serving as theoretical references and paving the way for research to investigate spatial distribution characteristics and influencing mechanisms. Though the multiple attributes of GIs are subdivided into various single attributes, such as commodity attributes (Deselnicu et al. 2013 ), economic attributes (Thiedig and Sylvander 2000 ), and political attributes (Cei et al. 2018 ), studies on the geographical properties have not received sufficient attention due to technical obstacles. Consequently, interpreting GIs’ connotations lacks crucial geographical attributes, potentially hindering their exploration based on spatial distribution characteristics. This oversight may lead to neglecting GIs’ demands for the geographical environment, thereby impacting exploration, quality assurance, and local economic development (Crescenzi et al. 2022 ).

Typically characterized by regional traits, GIs are easily transformed into tourism commodities (Mei 2014 ; Light and Young 2015 ). However, quantitative studies of their spatial patterns and influencing mechanisms are relatively scarce and lack multiscale, multidimensional, and dynamic analyses. To address these gaps, we used Shandong Province as an example and proposed a multiscale and multi-perspective quantification framework encompassing monomer- and regional-scale analyses and static and dynamic perspectives. This study aimed to provide a reference framework and case comparison for research on regional geographical elements similar to GIs.

Data sources and research methods

Data sources and preparation.

The GIs data were sourced from the GIs information of 16 prefecture-level cities in Shandong Province, as published on the official website of the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Affairs of China, from January 2008 to December 2021 (243 samples were utilized for this study). The geometric center of the area, that is, a township or village of the registration place was utilized to determine the location of the GIs. The administrative division data for Shandong Province were obtained from the Resources and Environmental Sciences and Data Center of the Chinese Academy of Sciences in 2015. Other geographical data were collected from the official websites of 16 prefecture-level cities and the Statistical Yearbook of Shandong Province for 2022. Additionally, the QGIS software was employed for geospatial data processing and visualization to display the spatial pattern characteristics of GIs, whereas the Geodetector was utilized to explore their influencing mechanisms (Du et al. 2001 ; Wang and Xu 2017 ).

Theoretical basis and research methods

Theoretical basis.

GIs constitute a distinct category of geographical elements characterized by obvious regional traits and widespread spatial patterns, often displaying agglomeration, association, and heterogeneity features. Drawing inspiration from Tobler’s first law of geography (Tobler 1970 ; Miller 2004 ), this study primarily focuses on the association and heterogeneity of GIs in spatial distribution, employing a static perspective on spatial patterns. Globally distributed GI across various countries and regions has garnered international attention and attained a considerable scale. They exhibited a clustering trend in spatial patterns, enabling the exploration of connections between GIs and other geographical elements. Given that geographic entities adjacent to GIs bear greater relevance than non-adjacent entities, GIs possess distinct regional characteristics reflecting their origin’s natural and human geographical features. In a broader sense, they embody the characteristics of the human-land relationship within a region, extending beyond provinces and countries. Recognizing that external factors beyond the study area influence the existence and development of GIs, a comprehensive analysis was conducted, encompassing their geographical locations and surrounding external influencing factors at multiple scales, including monomer and regional scales. Considering multiple perspectives, such as static and dynamic, GIs can be viewed as regional tourism commodities with both explicit and implicit characteristics. Beyond traditional static factors, with the growing application of internet big data (Li et al. 2015 ), GIs exhibit a dynamic property in their occurrence space, evolving with changes in public perception. Internet hot words were utilized to represent public perceptions of GIs, capturing the correlation between the domestic and international fame of GIs. This approach was employed to explore the varying effects of various factors on public cognition.

Analysis framework

As illustrated in Fig. 1 , to delve into GIs’ spatial patterns and influencing mechanisms, we formulated a comprehensive quantifying framework encompassing multiple scales and perspectives, namely, the spatial agglomeration, autocorrelation, and heterogeneity of GIs. This framework considers both monomer and regional scales and static and dynamic perspectives.

Research framework of this study.

At the monomer scale, a geographical entity (i.e., a GI) was treated as a point, whereas the regional scale pertained to the entire region (i.e., all GIs within the region). Specifically, taking Shandong Province as an example, the monomer scale analysis delved into the spatial patterns and influencing mechanisms of GIs’ kernel density and GIs’ public perception based on Internet search engine webpage popularity in this study. It was convenient to show the spatial distribution characteristics of geographical elements (Qu et al. 2018 ). Simultaneously, the regional-scale analysis involved GIs’ spatial distribution patterns in prefecture-level cities of Shandong Province and their corresponding influencing mechanisms; for the analysis at this scale, it was convenient to provide a decision reference and case support for overall regional economic development (Li and Qu, 2021 ). Incorporating the regional-scale analysis of GIs could objectively reflect the overall spatial pattern distribution and the overall development level of GIs in a certain region and reflect the degree of support of the regional society and economy for their development, providing insights into the high-quality agricultural development of the region. As for the combination of static and dynamic perspectives (Fig. 1 ), the former delved into the spatial pattern of GIs’ kernel density and its influencing mechanism, whereas the latter involved the spatial pattern of GIs’ public perception and its influencing mechanism, considering the dynamic nature of Internet search engine page popularity over time.

Kernel density analysis

Kernel density estimation, a nonparametric method for estimating probability density functions, was employed in this study to assess the probability density function of the GI sample data. This technique computes the probability density function by positioning a kernel function at each data point, and subsequently weighting the average of these kernel functions. Unlike point density analysis, this approach obviates the need to specify the neighborhood and estimate density through the contribution value generated by the sample points to establish a feature relationship in the spatial distribution of GIs (Silverman 1986 ).

Equations ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) delineate the kernel density estimation process (Węglarczyk, 2018 ):

In Eqs. ( 1 ) and ( 2 ), \(\hat{f}(x)\) represents the value of the GIs’ kernel density, h denotes the search radius ( h  > 0), N is the number of GIs in Shandong Province. K ( x ) is the kernel function, and d signifies the dimensionality of spatial space, where d  = 2 for two-dimensional spatial distributions. ( x – x i ) signifies the distance between sample points x and x i . Smaller distances between two sample points amplify the contribution of x to the density estimate (Zhou et al. 2020 ; Li et al. 2020 ).

Spatial autocorrelation analysis

Following Tobler’s first law of Geography, “everything is related to everything else, but near things are more related than distant things” (Miller 2004 ). Therefore, utilizing spatial autocorrelation as a statistical method provides a comprehensive assessment of the aggregation and dispersion of sample points, both globally and locally (Yan 2016 ).

Moran’s I index

The application of global Moran’s I objectively signifies whether the distribution of the sample points exhibits a numerical spatial correlation. Meanwhile, the local Moran’s I visually display correlations by showcasing the degree of aggregation in local areas. The formula is expressed as (Anselin 1995 ):

In Eq. ( 3 ), \(\overline{y}\) denotes the mean value of variable y , while y i and y j represent the variable values at spatial locations i and j ( i  ≠  j ). Additionally, w ij signifies the spatial weight function between (Anselin 1995 ; Soltani and Askari 2017 ; Vilinová 2020 ). Typically ranging from –1 to 1, Moran’s I values provide valuable insights. I  > 0 indicates a positive spatial correlation, suggesting that larger (or smaller) attribute values tend to cluster together. Conversely, I  < 0 indicates a negative spatial correlation, where larger (or smaller) attribute values tend to be dispersed. I  = 0 signals spatial randomness. When spatially aggregated, the global Moran’s I index derives significance from its p-value (significance level) and z-score (critical value). p  > 0.05 implies a significant correlation, while z > 1.96 signifies a significant positive correlation, and z ≤ 1.96 indicates a significant negative correlation.

In this study, a uniform weight was assigned to the GIs to ensure consistent differentiation within the region. Each element was selected to count the contained GIs samples, and the counting size of each “element” served as the weight for spatial autocorrelation analysis (Chen 2009 ; Chen et al. 2021 ; Chen 2021 ).

Geary’s C index

Geary’s C index, akin to Moran’s I index, is a valuable tool for measuring spatial autocorrelation, enabling the assessment of spatial clustering or dispersion within a geographic space. Geary’s C index is calculated as follows (Mathur 2015 ):

In Eq. ( 4 ), where n denotes the sample size, x i represents the observed value of region i , \(\bar{x}\) represents the average value of all spatial unit observations, and \({w}_{{ij}}\) signifies the spatial weight between spatial units i and j by gauging their spatial relationship. The Geary’s C index ranges from 0 to 2. A value near 1 indicates random data distribution with no spatial autocorrelation, whereas a value near zero suggests spatial clustering. A value close to two signifies spatial dispersion with negative spatial autocorrelation (Mathur 2015 ).

To test the significance of the Geary’s C index using the Z statistic, the following formula was used:

In Eq. ( 5 ), where C represents the observed Geary’s C index, E ( C ) is the expected value of the Geary’s C index under the null hypothesis of no spatial autocorrelation (equal to one), and Se ( C ) is the variance of the Geary’s C index. The Z statistic calculates the p-value associated with the observed Geary’s C index, indicating the significance of the spatial autocorrelation. A significantly positive Z value suggests that the calculated Geary’s C-index value exceeds the expected value under a random spatial distribution, signifying strong spatial autocorrelation. Conversely, a significantly negative Z value indicates that the calculated Geary’s C index value is much lower than expected under a random spatial distribution, indicating strong spatial autocorrelation (Fortin et al. 1989 ; Getis 2009 ).

Internet hot word analysis

To a certain extent, the number of pages on the Internet containing a specific word reflects the word’s online prevalence and serves as a social-level indicator of attention (Xie et al. 2017 ). This study employed this dynamic indicator for a comprehensive exploration of relevant GIs’ public perception by conducting full-term searches on three widely used internet search engines: Baidu ( www.baidu.com ), Bing ( www.bing.com ), and Google ( www.google.com ). The search scope for Bing and Google was set from 2008 to 2023, which was consistent with the initial publication time of GIs from the official website of the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Affairs of China. This formula is expressed as follows:

In Eq. ( 6 ), f( x ) represents a GI’s Internet hot word index, with n denoting the number of selected Internet search engines ( i  = 1, 2, 3; n  = 3) and α i representing the count of web addresses retrieved by the Internet search engines. Equal weights were assigned to the three search engines. The domain names of the leading e-commerce websites ( https://www.taobao.com/ ) were blocked, excluding them from this analysis to enhance research precision and reduce the impact of GIs’ products on commercial websites as much as possible.

Geodetector

Geodetector, introduced initially to analyze the influencing factors of newborn neural tube malformations in Heshun County of Shanxi Province, China and contributing to environmental health research (Wang et al. 2010 ), has evolved into a primary model for investigating spatial heterogeneity and its formation mechanisms. It finds widespread application in diverse fields such as land use, public health, regional economy, planning, tourism, ecology, environment, pollution, remote sensing, computer networks, and life sciences (Xu et al. 2018 ; Bai et al. 2019 ; Chen et al. 2019 ; He et al. 2019 ; Zhu et al. 2019 ; Fang et al. 2020 ; Liu et al. 2020 ; Tan et al. 2020 ; Zhu and Alimujiang 2020 ; Li et al. 2021 ; Wu et al. 2021 ).

In this study, factor detection, interaction detection, and ecological detection via Geodetector were employed to analyze the strength of the influence of the spatial distribution and spatial differentiation of GIs in Shandong Province, and to explore the interaction effect between these two factors. The model expression for the geodetector is as follows (Wang and Xu 2017 ):

In Eq. ( 7 ), q represents the magnitude of the influence of spatial differentiation factors on GIs in Shandong Province, and ranges from 0 to 1. A value of q  = 1 indicates a complete alignment between the influencing factors and spatial distribution, signifying absolute control. Conversely, q  = 0 denotes a total lack of association between the influencing factors and the spatial distribution. N represents the number of sample areas within the study region, that is, the 16 administrative divisions of Shandong Province. N h refers to the number of GIs samples in each prefecture-level administrative area. σ 2 is the distribution variance of GIs in the study area, indicating the degree of spatial difference of GIs in Shandong Province. \({\sigma }_{h}^{2}\) is the distribution variance of GIs in the unit study area, indicating the degree of spatial difference of GIs in each prefecture-level administrative area. L is the number of unit research areas, representing the number of clustering and grading partitions of influencing factors. The precondition for the validity of Eq. ( 7 ) is σ 2 ≠ 0, ensuring the existence of spatial differentiation among GIs across Shandong Province. This formula gauges the impact of influencing factors on the spatial distribution of GIs and their number per unit area (Xu et al. 2023 ).

Shandong Province, located on the east coast of China in the lower reaches of the Yellow River, boasts a rich agricultural legacy and is recognized as one of the ancient civilization cradles and the largest agricultural province in China. Over the years, the industrial people of Shandong have contributed significantly to farming, inventing numerous agricultural tools and actively cultivating cash crops (Xia 2010 ; Peng 2011 ; Tian et al. 2021 ). While enhancing water resource efficiency for stable farmland irrigation, the province has actively integrated into the high-quality agricultural development of the Yellow River Basin. This involves resource-sharing and complementary advantages through collaboration with other provinces and cities in the basin (Ji 2015 ; Hua 2021 ; Zha et al. 2022 ). These distinctive natural and social conditions play pivotal roles in the formation and development of GIs in Shandong Province, contributing to its status as the province with the highest abundance of GIs (Zhang et al. 2021 ). A comprehensive analysis of the spatial distribution and factors influencing GIs in Shandong Province is important for the protection, development, and exploration of cultural connotations, thereby fostering the local economy (Fan et al. 2020 ).

Owing to variations in current statistical parameters, differences in statistical quantities may arise among different studies. Taking Shandong Province as an example, this study conducted a quantitative analysis of the spatial patterns of GIs, showcasing strong regional typicality in the underlying influencing mechanisms and offering generalizable research insights. Serving as a valuable reference for the research framework of high-quality agricultural development in Shandong Province and beyond, this study aids the promotion of high-quality agricultural products, enhancing their reputation, increasing farmers’ incomes, and facilitating sustainable regional economic development.

Data analysis and results

Spatial pattern characteristics of gis in the case area, quantity distribution of gis in shandong province.

As distinctive intellectual properties localized in specific regions, GIs hold brand and cultural values and play a vital role in fostering agricultural economic growth and rural revitalization (Yin et al. 2021 ). As depicted in Fig. 2 and detailed in Table 1 , coastal cities host a significant share of GIs, constituting 59.26% of the total registered GIs in Shandong Province. This dominance suggests that the coastal geographical setting favors the production of high-quality seafood, endowing these areas with advantages in terms of market recognition and competition (Cao and Wang 2020 ). In summary, the distribution of GIs in Shandong Province was uneven across administrative divisions, with coastal regions enjoying a geographical edge over their inland counterparts.

GIs in Shandong Province.

Spatial agglomeration and association analyses of GIs in the case area

Spatial agglomeration analysis of gis in shandong province.

To uncover the spatial agglomeration characteristics of GIs in Shandong Province, we employed kernel density analysis. Figure 3a illustrates the kernel density values of GIs’ spatial distribution, revealing that the GIs were primarily concentrated in Linyi, Qingdao, and Weihai. In Linyi City, the kernel density values of the GIs ranged from 24.0245 to 42.0423, indicating a relatively concentrated distribution. GIs from Linyi City, such as Mengyin peach and Cangshan pepper, thrive on hilly terrain, fertile soil, and significant temperature variations, fostering ideal conditions for agricultural product growth (Gu et al. 2021 ). Qingdao displayed a wider distribution range, with a kernel density ranging between 18.0184 and 42.0423, indicating clustered product distribution. Key GIs in Qingdao, including Tsingtao, Jiaodong, and Jimo pears, benefit from favorable natural conditions, such as significant temperature variations, ample rainfall, fertile soil, and abundant sunshine (Fu 2017 ). Similarly, in Weihai City, the GIs exhibited a concentrated distribution along the coastal areas, with kernel densities ranging from 18.0184 to 36.0367. Prominent GIs in Weihai City, such as Weihai hairy crabs and Weihai rice, thrive in habitats rich in marine resources and clear water near the Yellow Sea and Bohai Sea. The large temperature difference between the day and night in coastal areas further supports the growth of high-quality agricultural products.

a Kernel density analysis of GIs. b Local Moran’s I Index LISA plot of GIs.

In summary, the kernel density analysis underscores the significant influence of natural factors on the distribution of GIs in Shandong Province. The heightened particle density values in Linyi, Qingdao, and Weihai can be attributed to favorable natural conditions in these regions.

Spatial association analysis of GIs in Shandong Province (Moran’s I index)

Table 2 presents the results of the spatial association analysis using the global Moran’s I index for the GIs in Shandong Province. These findings suggest that when considering Shandong Province as a whole area, the spatial distribution of GIs in a unit region tends to exhibit clustering rather than a random distribution. The global Moran’s I index in this analysis was greater than zero, indicating a positive correlation between the spatial data. Although Moran’s I value was relatively small in this part, the z-score surpassed 3.51, and the p-value was less than 0.01. This combination only suggests the high reliability of the spatial aggregation effect, but the degree of correlation warrants careful exploration (Chen 2023 ). When the distance threshold was adjusted (5, 10, and 20 km), Moran’s I decreased further when the threshold increased, particularly with a small value. This trend indicates that as the range of influence of the GIs quantity in unit space expands, the degree of correlation of spatial data in Shandong Province shows a decreasing trend.

From the LISA chart of the local Moran’s I index (Fig. 3b ), GIs in Shandong Province exhibited no low or low-low aggregation as a whole. On the Jiaodong Peninsula, a pattern of high-low aggregation was observed, whereas in southwest Shandong Province, there was a pattern of large-area aggregation, specifically high-high aggregation. Moreover, Qingdao and Dongying, located between high and low and high-high aggregation areas, did not exhibit significant aggregation characteristics (Liu and Che 2019 ).

Spatial association analysis of GIs in Shandong Province (Geary’s C index)

Table 3 presents the calculation results of Geary’s C index for the spatial autocorrelation of GIs at the monomer scale, considering indicators Y 1 (the kernel density value of spatial distribution of GIs) and Y 2 (public perception of spatial distribution of GIs). The results show that Geary’s C-statistic for Y 1 is 0.15968, significantly smaller than the expected value of 1 ( p  < 0.001), indicating a noteworthy spatial clustering autocorrelation for the kernel density indicator in the sample. For Y 2 , Geary’s C-statistic was 0.63721, which was smaller than the expected value of 1 ( p  < 0.036) at a significance level of 5%, signifying a significant spatial clustering autocorrelation for the dynamic social recognition of GIs.

Spatial heterogeneity and its influencing mechanisms of GIs in the case area

Possible influencing factors of gis’ spatial heterogeneity in shandong province.

Considering the geographic characteristics of the study area, data availability, and existing research (Xue et al. 2020 ; Yang et al. 2016 ), we categorized the factors influencing the spatial distribution of Y 1 , Y 2 , and Y 3 into 15 influencing factors: natural (X 1 –X 7 in Table 4 ) and socioeconomic (X 8 –X 15 in Table 4 ). Analysis of the factors influencing the spatial distribution of GIs was aimed at exploring spatial heterogeneity using a geodetector. Notably, this analysis included towns and villages with rich historical and cultural heritage, potentially enriching the cultural connotations of GIs.

Spatial heterogeneity detection and its influencing mechanisms of GIs in Shandong Province

Factor interpretation power detection analysis.

Factor detection in the Geodetector was employed to assess the explanatory power of the influencing factor X for a specific phenomenon value Y. By conducting the factor detection analysis, the q and p values of each influencing factor affecting the distribution of GIs in Shandong were obtained (Table 5 ). The q-value in the table indicates the influence of the differentiated factors on the distribution of GIs in Shandong, and the p-value signifies the degree of significance obtained using the statistical significance test method (Chen et al. 2022 ). Correlating with the information provided in Section 3.2.1, the meanings of X 1 –X 15 correspond to those listed in Table 4 . As shown in Table 5 , Y 1 represents the kernel density of GIs’ spatial distribution, Y 2 refers to the public perception (i.e., the popularity of GIs terms through Internet search engines) of GIs’ spatial distribution, and Y 3 denotes the quantity density of GIs in a region (i.e., a prefecture-level city).

In Table 5 , p 1 values of X 1 (temperature), X 2 (precipitation), X 5 (soil type), X 9 (gross domestic product (GDP) per capita), X 10 (number density of towns and villages with rich historical and cultural heritage in prefecture-level cities), X 11 (proportion of primary industry), X 12 (urbanization rate), X 13 (proportion of tertiary industry), and X 15 (output value of agriculture, forestry, fishery, and animal husbandry) were all less than 0.05, indicating that these factors significantly affected the spatial distribution of GIs. Notably, GDP per capita and agricultural output reached their two highest q-values, surpassing 0.4, demonstrating a statistically significant impact on GI distribution.

In analyzing the comprehensive popularity of GI terms using well-known Internet search engines, only the p-value of NDVI was less than 0.05, reflecting a significant correlation. According to the analysis, GIs in regions with a high vegetation cover index have a more significant effect on gaining popularity on the Internet, and their q-value is maximal but less than 0.1 among the 15 influence factors. Overall, all the factors that influence the perceived popularity of GIs have almost no impact, suggesting that the degree of perception of GIs in China is not high.

Y 3 focuses on the density of GIs in various cities and includes the ratio of registered GIs in each city to the land area of the administrative districts. The analysis employed region-based elements, including factors X 1 , X 2 , X 10 , X 11 , X 12 , X 13 , and X 15 as analytical variables. The selected analytical factors did not significantly affect the density values. The q-values were highest for X 15 and X 12 , at approximately 0.97 and 0.79, respectively. This underscores the importance of agricultural output and urbanization levels in relation to the density of GIs in the city. Conversely, the smallest values observed for X 1 and X 2 were below 0.1, suggesting no apparent correlation between temperature, precipitation, and GIs’ density in the city.

Combined with the multi-angle analysis of the three Y values, it can be inferred that the distribution quantity of GIs has a strong correlation with the level of urbanization, degree of economic development, and production levels of agriculture, forestry, fisheries, and animal husbandry in the city, whereas the correlation between natural factors and their distribution quantity does not show a significant correlation. It is inferred that the popularity of GIs may be a more comprehensive factor, and it is easier to produce better-known GIs in regions where the influencing factors are more comprehensive, and each factor has certain advantages.

Interaction detection and ecological detection

Interaction detection in a geodetector assesses the interaction value between two impact factors, indicating whether the Y value increases or decreases when the two factors work together. Referring to previous research (Xu et al. 2021 ), the 15 impact factors selected in Table 4 were used for interaction detection, and Python was employed for visualization (Figs. 4 , 5 ). The different colors in Table 6 are used to distinguish between bivariate enhancement and nonlinear enhancement. Ecological detection in the geodetector was employed to determine whether a statistically significant difference existed between two factors, X A and X B . If factor X A was significantly greater than factor X B , it was denoted by “T”; conversely, if no significant difference was observed, it was denoted by “F.” In Table 6 , the ecological detector detection (Wang et al. 2016 ) of 10 impact factors produced an evaluation table of the ecological detection of the impact factors.

a Factor interpretation power detection. b Interaction detection.

a Result for kernel density value of GIs (Y 1 ). b Result for public perception of GIs (Y 2 ). c Result for GIs’ density in each city (Y 3 ).

As shown in Fig. 5 , the analysis of Y 1 revealed that the highest values resulting from the interactions X 2  ∩ X 9 , X 5  ∩ X 9 , X 7  ∩ X 9 , X 2  ∩ X 15 , X 5  ∩ X 15 , and X 7  ∩ X 15 exceeded 0.65. The interactions X 7  ∩ X 9 and X 7  ∩ X 15 exhibited a nonlinear enhancement effect, while the rest demonstrated bivariate enhancement. Shifting focus to the analysis of Y 2 , the interactions X 7  ∩ X 9 , X 7  ∩ X 10 , X 7  ∩ X 12 , X 7  ∩ X 13 , and X 7  ∩ X 15 all exceeded 0.45 and represented the maximum values. The effects of these interactions manifest as a nonlinear enhancement. For the analysis of Y 3 displayed in Figs. 4 and 5 , the interactions X 2  ∩ X 12 , X 2  ∩ X 15 , X 10  ∩ X 15 , X 11  ∩ X 15 , and X 12  ∩ X 15 all had approximate values close to 1. Only X 2  ∩ X 12 displayed a nonlinear enhancement, while the rest exhibited bivariate enhancement effects. In addition, the overall performance of the interaction was greater than that of the other groups, with 11 items having values greater than 0.95, indicating that the effect of the interaction of the impact factors was significant.

Recently, there has been a growing focus on developing high-quality agricultural products. GIs have become a central aspect of agricultural products, driven by the need to upgrade the agricultural economy and increase the interconnectivity of world trade. This transformation has shifted these products from traditional development modes and concepts to modern international standards (Zhao et al. 2014 ). These changes have led people to embrace the concept of GIs, with some expressing a willingness to choose agricultural products that bear GIs’ marks (Török et al. 2020 ; Teuber 2011 ). Thus, this study intends to enrich the quantitative research on GIs’ spatial patterns and influencing mechanisms based on multiscale and multi-perspective analyses. The main contents are summarized as follows:

Spatial agglomeration, spatial association, and spatial heterogeneity of GIs in Shandong Province

Based on Shandong Province, the spatial pattern characteristics of GIs were investigated by exploring spatial agglomeration, association, and heterogeneity at regional and monomer scales. As the emergence and development of GIs depend on the combined effects of natural and socioeconomic conditions, the effects of spatial agglomeration and the association of GIs at regional (i.e., prefecture-level cities) and monomer scales were used by utilizing kernel density estimation and spatial autocorrelation analysis. At the regional scale, areas with higher kernel density values were concentrated in the southeastern Shandong Province, encompassing cities such as Linyi, Qingdao, and Weihai. While no significant correlation was identified, it was evident that GIs’ spatial distribution was not random. There was a noteworthy spatial clustering autocorrelation on the monomer scale for the dynamic social recognition of GIs. Moreover, the spatial pattern of GIs was correlated with the spatial distributions of natural, economic, social, cultural, and other factors. From a static perspective, the correlation of the spatial distribution patterns between socioeconomic factors and GIs’ spatial density outweighs that of natural factors. However, no significant correlation was found for public perceptions of GIs from a dynamic perspective. Considering the indicator of GIs terms’ popularity through Internet search engines, it can be inferred that the spatial autocorrelation between public perceptions of GIs and natural/socioeconomic conditions may be less crucial under the influence of Internet connectivity.

Furthermore, kernel density analysis often represents the spatial distribution’s dispersion degree for point geographical objects and reveals the spatial distribution law by counting the number of geographical objects in a specific neighborhood (Li et al. 2023 ). The GIs of Shandong Province had prominent spatial agglomeration distribution characteristics, as seen in the kernel density analysis. Considering that the Moran’s I index in GIs’ spatial association analysis was more significant than zero and relatively small, it did not have significant spatial autocorrelation; the analyses of the Moran’s I index and Geary’s C index were reliable, yet the spatial autocorrelation analysis involved a paradox, which suggested a high reliability of the spatial aggregation effect, while the degree of correlation was worth exploring (Chen 2023 ).

Influencing mechanisms of GIs’ spatial heterogeneity in Shandong Province revealed through single factor detection and interaction detection

Analysis of GIs’ spatial distribution patterns and 15 influencing factors using a geodetector revealed a double-factor enhancement and nonlinear enhancement effect. Joint interactions had a more significant impact than any single influencing factor, emphasizing the complexity of the spatial heterogeneity of GIs. This heterogeneity exhibited a stronger correlation with socioeconomic factors than natural factors, evident in both single-factor and interaction analyses. The results indicated that factors influencing GIs’ spatial heterogeneity mutually promoted each other, highlighting the phenomenon affecting GIs’ spatial differentiation not driven by a single factor but rather by a combination of multiple factors.

Evaluation framework and development suggestions for GIs presented through case reference

GIs have significantly contributed to national economic growth (Mesić et al. 2017 ). This study proposes a multiscale and multi-perspective quantification framework for GIs’ spatial patterns and their influencing mechanisms. This offers a scientific reference for understanding spatial distribution laws, formation mechanisms, and sustainable utilization. Notably, the spatial heterogeneity analysis of the public perception of GIs from a dynamic perspective provides valuable data and methodological insights for domestic sales and reputations of agricultural products and the export of domestic GIs products, using Shandong Province as an example.

Furthermore, enterprises producing and selling GIs should consider increasing capital investment to enhance output quality and embrace production modernization. Governments play a crucial role in implementing measures to protect the natural environment, improve the economic environment, and formulate policies conducive to GI development.

Conclusions

This study makes two significant contributions to existing literature. First, it introduces a multiscale and multi-perspective quantifying framework for understanding GIs’ spatial patterns and their influencing mechanisms. It can even provide a relevant reference for studying other geographical elements with spatial differentiation. Multiscale analysis encompasses monomer and regional scales, whereas multi-perspective analysis includes static and dynamic perspectives. This framework offers valuable insights into decision-making for agricultural brand construction and high-quality development of agriculture, particularly in regions represented by GI products, and analyzing other geographical elements. European studies on GIs are extensive, but there is a need for further exploration in other regions; plans include a comparative study involving different countries to validate and enhance the proposed method.

Second, this study achieved a relatively comprehensive quantification of the mechanisms influencing the spatial heterogeneity of GIs and revealed intricate connections between the spatial heterogeneity of GIs and influencing factors by utilizing 15 influencing factors in the analysis and employing both single-factor detection and interaction detection.

However, certain aspects require further investigation. The analysis did not consider other conditions for GI development, such as local government incentive policies, owing to quantification ambiguity. While a composite analysis framework for geographical elements was proposed, the degree of exploration was deemed insufficient, and no significant factors for spatial differentiation were identified in public perception. Future research should also explore the implications of high-quality development and sustainable use of GIs in different countries. As spatial autocorrelation analysis involves a paradox (Chen 2023 ), the degree of correlation deserves further exploration through a comparative analysis of the study area. Given the commodity attributes of GIs’ products and the development background of the “Internet +“ model in China, GIs’ public perception based on “hot word analysis” may be used as a potential dynamic indicator, considering the dynamic nature of Internet search engine page popularity over time. Thus, more suitable dynamic analysis indexes need to be discussed further.

Data availability

The datasets generated during and/or analyzed during the current study are available from the corresponding author on reasonable request.

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Acknowledgements

This work is supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (No. 42201266), the Postdoctoral Fellowship Program of CPSF (No. GZC20230918), the Natural Science Foundation of Shandong Province in China (No. ZR2021QD151), and the Research on the Entrusted Agency of Ownership for Natural Resource Assets Owned by the Whole People in Linyi City and the Research Start-up Fund Project from Shandong Agricultural University (010/381460, 010/72156). The authors express their sincere gratitude to Jian Duan from Zhejiang Normal University for her suggestions for this work.

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Fulin Liu: Study design; Literature research; Data acquisition and processing; Data analysis; Data interpretation; Statistical analysis; Visualization; Writing - original draft; Writing—review & editing. Shixin Ding: Data acquisition and processing; Data analysis; Visualization; Writing—review & editing. Jinxing Zhang: Writing—review & editing. Yingying Wang: Study design; Methodology; Writing—review & editing; Manuscript revision; Manuscript final version approval; Funding acquisition; Project administration.

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Liu, F., Ding, S., Zhang, J. et al. A multiscale and multiperspective quantifying framework for spatial patterns and influencing mechanisms of geographical indications. Humanit Soc Sci Commun 11 , 1119 (2024). https://doi.org/10.1057/s41599-024-03602-4

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• Indranil Bhattacharya 7 , 8 ,
• Upendra Rajapaksha 9 &
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Part of the book series: Implementing the UN Sustainable Development Goals – Regional Perspectives ((IUNSDGRP))

What are the current digital and/or innovations driving sustainable architecture? What could be the suggestions for a more holistic approach?

The effects of Climate Change and Global Warming are currently visible to all. UN SDG 11 attempts to “ make cities and human settlements inclusive, safe, resilient and sustainable. ”

Sustainable buildings are the key to sustainable settlements and cities. Sustainable design parameters may be visualized as the “ genetic co de” of a building’s performance requirements – similar to the DNA of all living entities. This “Building DNA” could provide comprehensive “Performance” parameters and could be programmed to be SMART – Sensible, Meaningful, Adaptive, Realistic, and Time-cost effective.

“Programming” has become an all-important task, as specific parameters of geography, climate, topography, culture, process, technology, and logistics are key forces driving innovative and integrated architecture from its very inception. While shaping out “Passive” sustainable design solutions for site, volume, structure, envelope, interiors, and others one is trying to minimize the need for “Active” utilities, if and where necessary.

The German government BMBF, Federal Ministry of Education and Research, and DAAD, German Academic Exchange Service, funded program culminated in a web-portal and app climatehub.online. Holistic design strategies and academic research created a broader audience, a collaborative and deeper understanding of the topics on hand and a one-of-a-kind E-Learning Platform – Program.

It is believed that individual approaches of experts should be linked together for a “synergetic” approach and that this combined effort across “OUR” PLANET could be more productive than addressing the issues individually/locally.

In a nutshell, it is vital that the ecological responsibility as Architect, Engineer, and others lies in “ designing sailboats and not motorboats in architecture .”

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RV College of Architecture, Bangalore, India

Indranil Bhattacharya

BRAE Consulting Services Pvt Ltd, Bangalore, India

Department of Architecture, University of Moratuwa, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Dr. Upendra Rajapaksha

Building Construction, MSA Muenster School of Architecture, University of Applied Sciences, Muenster, Germany

Professor Juergen Reichardt

Reichardt-Maas-Ass. Architekten GmbH & Co. KG, Essen, Germany

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Correspondence to Indranil Bhattacharya .

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European School of Sustainability Science and Research, Hamburg University of Applied Sciences, Hamburg, Germany

Walter Leal Filho

Centre for Global Sustainability Studies, Universiti Sains Malaysia, Minden, Malaysia

Theam Foo Ng

School of Property, Construction and Project Management, RMIT University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia

Usha Iyer-Raniga

Centre for Sustainable Business, International Business University, Toronto, ON, Canada

Network for Education and Research on Peace and Sustainability and Graduate School of Humanities and Social Sciences, Hiroshima University, Higashi, Hiroshima, Japan

Ayyoob Sharifi

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School of Accounting, RMIT University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia

Tehmina Khan

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Bhattacharya, I., Rajapaksha, U., Reichardt, J. (2024). Novel Concept and Technologies of Sustainable Building Design. In: Leal Filho, W., Ng, T.F., Iyer-Raniga, U., Ng, A., Sharifi, A. (eds) SDGs in the Asia and Pacific Region. Implementing the UN Sustainable Development Goals – Regional Perspectives. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-17463-6_23

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DOI : https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-17463-6_23

Published : 01 September 2024

Publisher Name : Springer, Cham

Print ISBN : 978-3-031-17462-9

Online ISBN : 978-3-031-17463-6

eBook Packages : Earth and Environmental Science Reference Module Physical and Materials Science Reference Module Earth and Environmental Sciences

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